Pelio, is the birthplace of Iason (Jason) who embarked with the Argonauts in the quest of the Golden Fleece. It was on the Aegean rocky coast of Pelio that in 480B.C Xerxes the King of Persia lost 40 ships on his way to Salamis. That loss gave the opportunity for the conquest of the Persian Empire by Alexander the Great. Pelio was also the summer resort of the Olympian Gods and the battlefield of the giants against Zeus, known as “gigantomahia”. There are 24 quaint villages, each one with their own special characteristics and majestic scenery. A walk in any of the Pelio villages is truly impressive, because you feel that time has stood still in this part of the world for more than hundred and fifty years. Nature and neighborhoods have remained unspoiled and unrefined. Each village preserves its old-world charm, which is hard to find in today’s modern society. All have a flag stoned square (platia,) with a stone built church and an imposing tree under which there is a carved marble fountain. Other typical surroundings are the winding cobble stone paths, traditional mansions, and a large selection of boutique shops with handmade products. The products include: homemade honey, pasta, preservatives, olive oil and olives, natural herbs and teas, spices, pottery, and icons, just to name a few. The homes are built with stones in simple lines, symmetrical windows, iron balconies, and marble details. The walls of the homes, especially on the first floor, can be as thick as 20 centimeters, so a comfortable temperature is maintained inside the building, regardless of the weather outdoors. Colored stained glass windows, grey slate roofs, oversized wooden shutters, and large pristine gardens, complete the neighborhoods’ aesthetic pictures. The indoors of these well appointed mansions are decorated with antiques in dark brown colors and magnificent woodwork, handcrafted embroidery, substantial iron chandeliers, colorful pottery, and rugs. There seems to be a perfect balance between distinctive architecture, tradition, millennium old trees, caves, hidden valleys, and deep ravines.

As we walked in Portaria, we were pleasantly surprised when we saw the “Komboloi” (Worry Beads) Museum. This petite Museum houses a display of unusually beautiful “Komboloya,” made from amber, ivory, bone, and other materials. We could not resist not having our own Komboloi, very much like what “pappou” used to have as his best companion on lonely days. The Museum’s representative suggested we visit the quaint Chapel of “Panagias tis Portareas,” from which the village name is derived. We took the Centaur’s path, which leads to the crystal spring stream of “Pigi Manas,” for a refreshing rest. We continued our winter walk, enjoyed the breathtaking scenery of the lush pine forests and the faint smell of pine floating through the air. As we were strolling through pathways covered with stone, the trees swayed rhythmically in the cold and freshly fallen snow. When we approached the chapel, we were impressed by its simplicity. It is a single space, with a wooden roof that was probably built around the first half of 13th century. The interior frescoes and icons were made noticeable presence, even though it was build more than 750 years ago. The next day we continued our winter adventure and, from Milies, hopped on to “Moutzouris” (Smudgy.) I am sure you are wondering what “Moutzouris” is. This steam train was engineered in late 1800s by a famous Italian railroad engineer, Evaristo de Chirico. Evaristo was the father of Giorgio de Chirico, an influential surrealist painter. He was the founder of the art movement, “art metafisica,” and he imprinted the figure of “Moutzouris” in some of his most famous paintings. The railway track is one of the narrowest in the entire world, only 60cm wide. “Moutzouris’s” maximum speed is 20km, and a 90min journey gives you the opportunity to enjoy the majestic views of Pagasitikos Gulf crystal waters, against the rich mountainous backdrop and quaint villages Pinakates and Ano Gatzea. “Moutzouris” travels over eight stone with carved marble arches, one iron bridge, deep chasms, and extensive natural forests filled with the aroma of fresh rosemary and oregano. Apple orchards, chestnut trees, cascade waterfalls, and rolling hills are some of the beautiful natural elements that were in such a perfect harmony, we felt we were in true paradise. During our journey, Giorgio de Chirico’s words came back to life; “Greece is an inexhaustible source of inspiration.”

In Milies there is an interesting library which houses authentic documents about the Greek Revolutionary War, old books and maps, and chemistry and physics instruments. Similarly, in the Zagora village, there is the oldest school, the “Old School of Ripas”, which was established in 1777. The most famous student of the school was Rigas Ferreos, a dynamic leader in the Greek War of Independence (1821-1827.) The library has an impressive collection of 15.000 old books and manuscripts. In this peaceful 19th century village the mountain streams were murmuring and the woods transformed into the winter wonderland. When time for lunch arrived, we stopped in one of the many traditional mansions that, also, provide accommodation services. In addition, they offer an eclectic selection of homemade foods usually served in the formal rooms of the home “saloni-trapezaria,” located next to a typically grand fireplace. As we were sitting in the “saloni” and watching the burning wood, we were treated with “tsipouro,” a local traditional drink. A hot traditionally cooked lemon-chicken (avgolemono) soup, served in a terracotta pot with freshly baked rosemary bread loaf, was probably the most delicious avgolemono soup we’ve ever had. We finished our meal with a homemade yogurt, served with honey and topped with nuts. We enjoyed our conversation over Greek coffee with the owner of this magnificent home. I was impressed by his devotion and love for preserving the Greek traditional heritage in every aspect of his daily life and, hopefully, seeing his children continuing the same traditions. The next day, we had a ski adventure in Agriolefkes. There are four slopes: Thetis, Falconera, Panorama, and Amateurs. The altitude is 1500 km and total length is 5000km, with ski lifts in constant operation, snowboarding, and expert ski teachers to help you every step of the way. Imagine skiing with a view to the blue waters of the Aegean Sea against the white slopes. Breathtaking!

We were enthralled by our visit to Pelio, “an undiscovered paradise”. There is, indeed, a place and activity for all ages and interests, at all times. When you visit Greece next time, try to make a stop in Pelio during the summer or winter seasons. The aesthetic uniqueness and terrain of picturesque Mount Pelio, with its amphitheatric views to the Aegean Sea, the magnificent architecture of the quaint villages, and the history and warm hospitality of the locals, will please all of your senses and leave you with memorable imprints that will never fade.

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